Buying A Used Motorhome

I'm 67 years old. I have being buying, refurbishing and selling used motorhomes and campers for years. It's not uncommon, when I'm looking for a good motorhome to answer an ad from a seller trying to rid themselves of a pack of trouble. Without knowing what they were doing, they bought a motorhome, only to discover that it was virtually worthless. Now, they are trying to pawn it off on some other unsuspecting soul. This article is to keep you from being that person.

I recently answered an ad for a 2000, 35' motorhome that look pretty good in the photos and had low mileage. The lady told me she had paid $20,000 for it but found she was not going to be able to use it and was just hoping to get $15,000 out of it. Sounded like a deal. When I arrived, it took just a few seconds to discover that she had unwittingly purchased a motorhome with unfixable problems. I did not have the heart to tell this lady that she had blown $20,000. So I just got in my car and left.

The fatal flaw on this motorhome was that the sides had become delaminated. It's an unfixable problem unless it's confined to very small area. In this article, we'll cover that and all the other things you need to know to make an informed, intelligent investment.

Checking out a motorhome for sale

1. Delamination: Most motorhome sidewalls are somewhat of a "sandwich". The exterior surface is a very thin sheet of fiberglass glued to a very thin piece of laun plywood. Next is a 1"-1'1/2" layer of Styrofoam. That brings us to the interior wall. It is another very thin sheet of luan plywood usually covered in vinyl. Often due to water leaks or just age, the outside layer(s) can separate. It's all made under pressure at the factory. Once delamination has occurred it's an expensive and virtually impossible problem to fix. Here's how you check this out: Go to the rear of the coach. Place your head close to the wall surface and look toward the front ... along the side. Are there any bulges? Go to those places and push. Reject any motorhome or camper with this problem.

2. Water Leaks: Leaks come usually from the roof, but can originate around windows and slides. Delamination (above) reveals water intrusions into side walls. To check for other leaks go inside preferably with a strong flashlight. Look for stains on the ceiling. Check the walls. Remember they consist of a very thin layer of plywood covered with vinyl. Where water has seeped, the vinyl will be wrinkled or peeling. There will also be stains. Check around skylights, and other openings cut in the roof, for example for the AC units. The flash light will come in handy checking for leaks around slides if the coach you are looking at has them. Slide leaks are a common problem.

Should you buy a motorhome with leaks? That depends upon the magnitude of the leaks, the damage done and whether they can be addressed inexpensively. Caulking can take care of a lot of leaks. But the fact that the prior owner failed to do that should be a red flag. If the vinyl is coming off the thin plywood layer, it could be more of a problem than you might want to tackle. Leaking around windows and the front windshield is easier to mitigate. If you are looking for a ready to use RV, eliminate any that show even moderate leaking.

3. Inspect the roof Rv roofs fall into two basic categories. Aluminum and stretched rubber. Both types are ok. I don't prefer one over the other. But there are things you need to know about both. First, aluminum roofs have seams. They are usually taped (foil) with a mastic product covering that. At about the five year mark this tape starts popping up and has to be removed and replaced. Aluminum roofs are also painted and like any painted sufrace it sometimes requires rubbing compound and waxing to keep it in good shape. So, if a motorhome or camper has an aluminum roof, inspect the seams.

Rubber roofs usually have a 12 year warranty. But if the vehicle is stored indoors it can last many more years. The plus to a rubber roof is that it can be maintained with soap and water. Look for cracking and tears. This can come from age or from the use of petroleum based cleaners. Should you buy a motorhome with a roof problems? Again, that depends. It's about $500 to replace the seams on an aluminum roof and over $2000 to replace a rubber roof. Because of potential damage to the structure beneath, I would not buy a motorhome with a problematic roof.

4. Paint, Gel Coat, Stripes, Window trim Most motorhomes are not painted. The exterior finish is the outer coat of fiberglass call the "gel coat". Inspect this. I saw a 2001 Winnebago Journey Diesel Pusher with spider-web tiny cracks in this gel coat surface. The price to replace the two sides on this coach was $18,000 per side. Slide you hand along the exterior surface. You want it to feel "slick". That shows that the owner has been doing his exterior maintenance.

Stripes are usually tape. When they are fading, cracking and peeling you must consider the fact that replacment stripes are rarely available. If they are not too bad, they can be painted over with a paint that sticks to vinyl. Removing them will still leave their noticeable pattern. Any motorhome with compromised stripes should be discounted. It is evidence that it has been outdoors in the weather. It's better to buy one that's been garaged.

Many used motorhomes have Hehr or other windows and the vinyl trim has shrunk. This can be replaced with out much cost. Don't let this problem cause you to rule out an otherwise nice motorhome. Should you buy a motorome with exterior finish problems? It depends on the nature of the problem and the cost to address it.

5. Generators, Electrical, Appliances Most motorhomes have generators. The type that runs at 1800 rpm are quieter than the ones that operate at rpms over 3000. Check the "hours" meter to see the number of hours on the unit. Most will have under 1000 hours, but properly maintained they will last past 10,000 hours. It should crank reasonably quickly and run smoothly. Then a "load" should be added, for example turn both roof a/cs on. to see if it's producing adequately.

Shore power: A motorhome will have a heavy duty extension cord that is used to connect the coach to campground power poles. Motorhomes will either have 30 amp or 50 amp service. This is important in that a 30 amp coach when hooked up to shore power will not run both roof a/cs at the same time. But when it is being powered by the generator, that problem disappears. 50 amp coaches are capable of having everything on board run whether connected to shore power or generator.

Appliances should be checked to see if they operate as they should. The refrigerator is the most expensive item to repair should there be a problem. Turn on the 12 volt water pump, then go outside and check for water falling from the coach. Again, leaks underneath that are (not inside where they might destroy flooring or carpet) are easy to get to and cheap to fix. Check the furnace to see it comes on. Usually the furnace and hot water is run by LP.

Should you buy a motorhome with a bad generator or other problems mentioned above? Again it's a judgment call. Many generators that want start simply need a little TLC. I tend to check for oil leaks, if it the engine turns over ok and factor in the hours on the meter. Water pumps are cheap. The refrigerator is the next expensive thing to replace followed by the furnace and the water heater.

6 Interior, uphostery Try to find a non-smoking, non-pet coach. Flooring is not expensive to change out. Upholstery can be cleaned. Expect some wear on the driver and front passsenger seat. Check for quality. Many coaches are advertised with solid wood cabinets but in reality only the doors are solid. The cabinet shells are pressed wood wrapped with wood-looking vinyl. So while the doors could be refinished, the cabinets shells cannot.

Use a flashlight and check for rat nests under the bottom cabinets behind appliances. Things that need fixing, updating or changed out should be reflected in the price. Generally speaking upgrading the interior of a coach is not a huge expense.

7. Mechanicals, Slides, Jacks Not all motorhomes have jacks. Jacks are nice but add weight. For the few times needed, they amount to another mechanical system that needs to be monitored and maintained. Most C class motorhomes don't have them.

Slides add room when camping but take up room when the coach is on the road. They add significant weight and are a source of mechanical problems and leaks. I believe a coach's structural integrity is compromised when large openings are cut in the sides to accomodate them. The weight (up to 1000lbs per slide) is added at the wrong place, making the coach less stable. If an accident occurs they are less safe. Added weight reduces mpg.

8. Tires Don't be fooled by a tire that has good tread. The main problem with motorhome tires is age. Notice the sidewalls. An older tire exhibiting dry rotting will have significant cracking all around the sidewall. In 2008, I bought a 2007 Coachman with 3000 miles on it. Tire age was not a factor but still the sidewalls did have some very tiny cracks. The cracking you are looking for can see without even stooping down. The safe life of a tire is 5 years regardless of tread wear. Replacing 6 to 8 tires would likely cost between $2,000 and $3,000. Depending on the asking price, tires might be a deal killer for me.

9. Engine, Transmission, Brakes, Suspension Listen to the engine. If you hear the sound of air, puffing along with the engine running there may be an exhaust gasket blown. This is common to motorhomes. The parts don't cost much but the labor can be high, especially if the area is hard to access. Look for oil and other fluids underneath where the vehicle is parked. Look underneath the engine and transmission for wet areas. The presence of leaking fluids should signal you to call in a mechanic to check it out before you make the purchase. When you test drive the vehicle check it for stability (rolling or rocking back an forth). Driving a box on a truck chassis is dangerous enough without bad shocks or other suspension problems. If the vehicle doesn't seem stable enough, get the mechanic to find out why. Pushers are generally more stable than motorhomes with front engines. They are better balanced. Don't buy a coach that you feel uncomfortable driving.

10. Wheel wells An area typically overlooked are wheel wells. Use the flashlight and check out the wheel wells. It's where water is slung with great force up under the floor. It can penetrate . critical areas than can go unnoticed until a lot of damage is done. Problems here can usually be addressed with silicone caulking.

Conclusion: One person may buy a motorhome with a few problems as long the price is right, while another is looking for the perfect specimen. One other consideration is to, if possible, buy a brand that still being made. In other words, the manufacturer is still in business. That way parts and support are still available. Windshields are an item that can be hard to find if the manufacturer is gone. However, most motorhome equipment is backed by their individual makers. So, if a coach is priced right I wouldn't let the fact that the manufacturer out of business kill the deal.

A word about fuel mileage. Many sellers give rosy mpg figures. Any figures for a gas motorhome of 7 and above is predicated on your driving at 55-60. Drive faster and you are looking at 5-6. Diesel pushers can do 9 and above. Class C's are no better on fuel than A's.